Face W
The west face of the Dom des Michabels allows a line leading directly to the 4479 m sub-summit. It offers two main options:
- a west slope, offering a route that is never extremely steep and weaving cleverly between seracs and a very broken glacier. Proposed grade (to be confirmed): 4.3 / E2 D+ / S5.
- a northwest slope, steeper, shorter and with a more direct line. Proposed grade (to be confirmed): 5.2 / E2 TD / S5.
These two routes can be climbed both on the ascent and on the descent, offering fine steep-skiing.
- West slope: From the Dom hut, climb the moraine for about 100 m then traverse onto the glacier. Climb the glacier keeping rather to its right bank. Around 3400 m, head toward the Festi-Kin Lücke. Cross the two serac steps to reach the bergschrund at the foot of the upper part of the face (4100 m). Climb the face for 300 m, and exit as best you can via the Festigrat (around 4350 m). The summit is reached in 20 minutes by an obvious ridge.
- Northwest slope: Go to the foot of the Festijoch (see normal route, 2h15 from the hut), and attack straight into the face (significant bergschrund around 3800 m). Climb the face as best you can aiming for the 4479 m sub-summit (6h from the hut). Finish by the ridge leading to the summit.
- West slope (4.3): By the ascent route. After the bergschrund at 4100 m, then trend left to cross the seracs down to 3700 m, staying rather in the middle. Some significant crevasses around 3600 m, then rejoin the normal route around 3300 m.
- Northwest slope (5.2): Same start as the west slope. Below 4200 m, trend well right to take the steep couloir (50°) leading back under the Festijoch. Rarely in condition.
- Fine sustained slopes for steep skiing.
- Route allowing you to avoid the Festijoch and the seracs of the normal route.
- In good conditions, one ice axe is enough (provided you are comfortable in faces).
Gabarrou is said to have opened the direct line of this west face, date to be specified.
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1^giorno: dall' abitato di Randa (1.439 m), seguire il sentiero estivo per la Domhutte (indicazioni di colore blu). Oltre i 2.500 metri, il sentiero si inerpica attraverso salti rocciosi, trasferendosi spesso su via ferrata (presenza di corde fisse e fittoni, 400 metri), prima di raggiungere…
Dettagli →Fonte: camptocamp.org · testo con licenza CC BY-SA 4.0
