Abraxas — Sulzfluh, via alpinistica | Pick a Peak

Abraxas

Sulzfluh · 2 818 m · Catena del Reticone · Svizzera

Dislivello
667 m
Quota
2 150–2 817 m
Quota delle difficoltà
360 m
Grado alpinistico francese
TD difficile
FED4
Esposizione
SE
Impegno
I
Attrezzatura in loco
P2
Arrampicata libera
6a+

Descrizione

Approach · 1h

From Partnun P6 (6 Fr/day), go up the road and then the path that leads to the Partnunsee (lake). Carry on along the path on the left of the lake. The wall is on your left.

Follow the path up to the foot of the face. The start of the route is 100 metres left of a big characteristic hole (a cave). A blue mark shows the start of the route.

Route · 4-5h

All the belays up to R10 are on 2 glue-ins + a chain.

L13b40 m0Climbing between rocks, scree and grass.
L24c45 m3
L35c+45 m5A fine vertical pitch.
Climb the grass slope for 100 m.
L44b45 m3Cross onto the slabs right of the characteristic corner.
L54a45 m3Traverse left.
L66a45 m6Climb up to the right on a slab, then a corner-chimney for 10 m.
L76a+45 m6A slab pitch. A typically Swiss message box on the ledge.
L85a45 m3A pitch that is not as obvious as the number of bolts suggests. Not much can be placed.
L94a45 m4Climb the angled slab to the left.
L105b45 m4Slab at first, then loose rock.
L113c40 m3Easy climbing, finishing on a small ridge.

Then carry on by easy climbing and grass slopes to the summit.

Descent

From the summit, head right. The way is well marked by cairns until you rejoin the path (red-white-red waymarks).

Materiale

  • 4/5 cams C4 #00 > #1

Note

  • The limestone is generally very sound, with a few loose passages.
  • The bolting is fairly airy; a few cams will be welcome.

Storia della via

Bolted: 2002 — Vital Eggenberger.

Foto

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Rifugi entro 10 km, pensioni e campeggi entro 5 km

Rifugi e alloggi nei dintorni

Dati © OpenStreetMap

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    Altre vie su Sulzfluh

    Rialto

    TD 6b
    ↗ 875 m

    From Partnun P6 (6 francs/day), take the road then the trail leading to Partnunsee (lake). Continue on the trail to the left of the lake. The face is on your left.

    Dettagli →

    Fonte: camptocamp.org · testo con licenza CC BY-SA 4.0