A seemingly little-traveled route offers long sustained pitches and an adventurous experience.
From the Sidelenhut parking to the Hut, walk towards the Bielenlücke via ferrata. Wall is past the via ferrata couloir across the glacier (can be steep, especially close to the wall). First bolts not visible from the glacier, aim for the obvious climbable roof right of the black static line.
2.5h based on late season without snow cover, early easier would most likely make it a bit quicker.
L7 | 7b+ (6c oblig.) |
First bolts not visible from the glacier, aim for the obvious climbable roof right of the black static line without going into the right leaning line of weakness.
Bolts will show up in the last 20-30m of the first pitch. The first pitch was >55m from the glacier September 2025 without any zigzagging towards the first bolt.
Follow the topo, belays are generally obvious. For pitch 4 note that there is also a more visible belay and more bolts of another route at the bottom of the obvious red corner. The actual belay is a few meters higher and max ~7 meters to the left, slightly higher than the obvious ramp.
7 abseils from the top, for the last 2 follow the separate abseil belays further left.
Note neither a 50m abseil, or the black static line will get you the glacier at least as it was in 09.2025.
A 60m abseil barely reached the glacier back to a small spike where we started in September 2025
Walk back the way to came back to the hut or road.
2×50 m (60m helpful for first pitch, 50m does not reach the belay from the glacier at least in late season!)
2 sets of cams .3-3, single smaller cams.
12 quickdraws
Crampons
Ice axe
The route did not seem often traveled (End of September 2025), some of the cracks and some slight kitty-litter rock appear to not have been cleaned by sufficient ascents. Pitches 2-7 climb well, aesthetic features and largely good rock quality.The obvious highlight is the crux pitch on the beautiful red granite pillar. Unfortunately, the first pitch does not share in this delight with hard climbing on loose rock.
The hard sections are well protected with bolts, also enabling the 6c obligatory grade. The medium difficulty pitches are generally very sustained and to be primarily protected yourself.
Ean Barelli, Heinz Müller 2011
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Éléments affichés sur la carte
Refuge gardé · 2 708 m (878 m sous le sommet) · 34 lits
Refuge gardé · 2 542 m (1 044 m sous le sommet) · 64 lits · SAC - CAS
Refuge gardé · 2 439 m (1 147 m sous le sommet) · 20 lits · SAC - CAS
Refuge gardé · 2 412 m (1 174 m sous le sommet) · 55 lits
Refuge gardé · 2 350 m (1 236 m sous le sommet) · 42 lits · SAC - CAS
Refuge gardé · 2 370 m (1 216 m sous le sommet) · 65 lits · SAC - CAS
Refuge gardé · 2 570 m (1 016 m sous le sommet) · 80 lits · SAC
Refuge gardé · 2 795 m (791 m sous le sommet) · 78 lits · SAC - CAS
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Même approche que pour le Galengrat-Verschneidung. Lunar démarre à droite de celui-ci, le croise dans la zone médiane de gradins et finit à sa gauche.
Détails →Depuis le col de la Furka (ou Furkablick), suivre le sentier de la Sidelenhütte. Après le pont suivre la rive gauche du Siedelenbach en direction du cirque glaciaire situé entre le Gross Furkahorn et le Galengrat. Remonter celui-ci jusqu'à son extrémité N. L'attaque se situe dans des…
Détails →Depuis la Sidelenhütte, descendre au lac sous la cabane. Après le lac, partir en direction du Gross Furkahorn (quelques cairns).
Détails →Source: camptocamp.org · texte sous licence CC BY-SA 4.0
