The most accessible route on the Stockenfluhe, "Gin", offers very fine pitches on pre-alpine limestone of very high quality. Broken up by grassy terraces and a few transition pitches, the route is however not major as a whole.
From the car park at approximately 1650 m, take the alpine road (toll) up to Vorderstock, then follow the path until it opens onto the alpine meadows. Leave the road at the level of the small refreshment stand and traverse the fields in the direction of the two small chalets.
You then enter the forest, then skirt the edge of the cliff. After a few minutes, traverse above a scree slope, with a fixed rope on the other side. A few more metres, then you arrive at two bolts placed on a large block. Here "Gin" begins. Its neighbour, a grade harder, "Tonic", starts a few metres further on.
P#1 | 6b | | Somewhat vegetated, with creative climbing and 2–3 physical moves.
P#2 | 6c | | Very nice vertical wall with a crux concentrated on 1–2 moves.
P#~ Transition: follow the bolt, then traverse the wall for approximately 40 m. The route that goes up the yellow wall is "Tonic". After the "Cave", you find "Gin" again.
P#3 | 7a+ | | A fairly major pitch. An easy chimney start (6a), but very nice, leads to the vertical slab. An extremely delicate crux demands very good footwork technique to get onto the slab and traverse a few metres. It is followed by a steeper step, well sustained and technical. Keep some energy for the end (it's not easy).
P#4 | 6a | | Transition in chimney/crack, vegetated and frankly pretty poor.
P#5 | 6c+ | | A major pitch. Climbing in well vertical flutes, five-star quality! Balance, fine and technical compression moves: really classy.
P#~ Transition: traverse the grassy ledge. Several exits are possible. The one described here is the classic exit from "Gin".
P#6 | 6b+ | | A start that requires a bit of cleaning, but which then earns its keep with very pleasant climbing and a nice technical crux.
P#7 | 6b | | Easier, on big holds. One step at the exit.
Abseil from P7 to P6, then look for the abseil belay set up on a tree, which descends into the "Tonic" route. Then stay on the Tonic line all the way down.
Better to go there in spring or autumn around here. It's an oven!
Pleasure climbing
In 2011 by Chrigu Maurhofer.
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D'Erlenbach (700 m, gare SBB ou parking du téléphérique), gagner la ferme-auberge d'Oberstocken (arrêt très recommandable, accueil sympa, on peut aussi y dormir et y acheter du fromage d'alpage) au choix :
Détails →De l'arrivée du télécabine, rejoindre le col à gauche qui donne accès à la face N. Longer la face sur une centaine de mètres et repérer un relais qui marque le départ de la voie.
Détails →Source: camptocamp.org · texte sous licence CC BY-SA 4.0
