Schreckhorn, 4 078 m : montagne — en Suisse
Schreckhorn
Suisse · Europe

Schreckhorn

4 078m
Altitude
0
Gravi
0
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Johannes-dilger at German Wikipedia / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Wikimedia Commons

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Fait partie du défi « 4000ers of the Alps »

Schreckhorn is a 4,078 m peak in the Bernese Alps of Switzerland, rising above the Fiescher Glacier and the upper Gadmen Valley area. It is one of the most striking and serious mountains in the Bernese Oberland, known for its steep ridges, exposed climbing, and remote alpine setting.

The mountain is not a trekking peak in the usual sense. Access is mainly for experienced mountaineers, with glacier travel, rock climbing, and route-finding required. The most common approaches start from the Grindelwald area, often via mountain huts such as the Schreckhorn Hut or nearby alpine bases.

Schreckhorn is valued for its dramatic shape and classic alpine character. Conditions can change quickly, and the ascent demands good fitness, stable weather, and solid mountaineering skills. For many climbers, it is a challenging objective in the heart of the Bernese Alps.

Autres noms
Gross Schreckhorn, Shrekkhorn, srekaharna, srqhwrn, sshrykwrn, Шрекхорн, שרקהורן, سشريكورن, شریکہورن, শ্রেকহর্ন, შრეკჰორნი
Altitude
4 078 m
13,379 ft
Région
Suisse · Europe
Coordonnées
46.590, 8.118
Proéminence
795 m
Dénivelé au-dessus du col de liaison
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    Ascension

    Voies d’alpinisme

    ↗ 1550 m

    Depuis la Schreckhornhütte (2527 m), traverser horizontalement jusqu'au pied du Schreckcouloir (couloir évident qui descend au SW depuis le Schreckhorn). Remonter le couloir jusqu'à environ 3150 m en passant trois rétrécissements (exposé aux chutes de pierres et de glace, rester le plus…

    Détails →

    Pilier S

    D+ 5a
    ↗ 1650 m

    De la Schreckhornhütte, descendre sur le Obere Ischmeer (env. 2440 m) et suivre l’itinéraire de l'arête SW jusqu'à la rimaye.

    Détails →
    ↗ 2100 m 12.5 km

    De la Schreckhornhütte, descendre sur le glacier Obers Ischmeer (sentier balisé) et remonter sa rive droite sur environ 1 km jusqu'au pied d'un éperon surmonté par des éboulis et des rochers (cairns). Monter au mieux dans du terrain morainique (sente), franchir un ressaut rocheux en rive…

    Détails →
    ↗ 3500 m

    De Grindelwald, prendre le chemin de Schreckhornhütte. À la vue de la cabane, descendre et aller au SSE d’abord sur un pierrier (cairns), puis sur un glacier sur environ 800 m. Le départ du sentier est indiqué par un cairn avec un casque blanc. Ne pas aller tout droit par l’ancien chemin (marques…

    Détails →

    Arête SW

    AD+ 3c
    ↗ 1650 m

    De la Schreckhornhütte, descendre sur le glacier Obers Ischmeer (sentier balisé) et remonter sa rive droite sur environ 1 km jusqu'au pied d'un éperon surmonté par des éboulis et des rochers (cairns et casque avec catadioptre). Monter au mieux dans du terrain morainique (sente + cordes…

    Détails →
    Refuges à moins de 10 km, gîtes et campings à moins de 5 km

    Refuges et hébergements à proximité

    Données © OpenStreetMap

    Défis comprenant ce sommet

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    Popular trekking routes

    There are no true trekking routes to the summit of Schreckhorn, as the mountain is a technical alpine peak rather than a hiking destination. The closest walking approaches are long mountain paths leading toward the Schreckhorn Hut or neighboring huts in the Grindelwald region. These routes are scenic, high-alpine, and often include steep ascents, glacier views, and rough terrain. They are suitable for strong hikers with mountain experience, but not for casual walkers or families.

    Popular mountaineering routes

    The standard ascent of Schreckhorn is usually made from the Schreckhorn Hut via the south ridge or related glacier approaches, depending on conditions. The climb combines glacier travel, mixed terrain, and exposed rock sections, with objective hazards from crevasses and rockfall. Another classic line is the north ridge, which is more serious and less commonly attempted. Most routes require an early start, stable snow conditions, and confident movement on steep alpine ground. This is a demanding climb for experienced alpinists only.

    Nearest populated area, start of the route and how to get there

    The nearest major populated area is Grindelwald in the Bernese Oberland. Most approaches begin from the Grosse Scheidegg area, Grindelwald, or from trailheads connected to the Schreckhorn Hut. Travelers usually reach Grindelwald by train via Interlaken, then continue by local bus, taxi, or mountain transport where available. From the valley, the approach to the hut is long and strenuous, often taking several hours on foot before the climbing begins.

    Local Guides, tour agencies, and prices

    Guided ascents of Schreckhorn are best arranged through certified alpine guides in Grindelwald or Interlaken. Well-known providers include the Swiss Alpine Club hut network for logistics, Outdoor Interlaken, and local IFMGA mountain guides based in the Bernese Oberland. Prices vary by route, group size, and conditions, but a private guided climb often starts around CHF 900 to CHF 1,500 per day, excluding hut fees, transport, and equipment rental. Multi-day guided programs can cost more.

    Best time for ascension

    The best season for Schreckhorn is usually from July to September, when the mountain is most accessible and snow conditions are generally more stable. Early summer can still bring deep snow and avalanche risk, while late season may expose more rock and increase objective hazards. A cold, clear weather window is important because the routes are long and committing. Climbers should check glacier conditions, recent snowfall, and the forecast carefully before attempting the summit.

    Equipment

    Essential equipment for Schreckhorn includes crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness, rope, glacier travel gear, and protection for mixed climbing. Depending on the chosen route, climbers may also need rock shoes or sturdy alpine boots, belay device, slings, carabiners, and crevasse rescue equipment. Warm layered clothing, gloves, goggles, headlamp, map, GPS, and emergency supplies are important. Because the ascent is technical and remote, proper alpine equipment and experience are both necessary.

    Travel tips

    Plan the climb with an early start, as Schreckhorn routes are long and weather-sensitive. Reserve hut space well in advance during summer, and confirm current route conditions with the hut warden or a local guide. Bring enough cash or a card for hut payments, and expect limited services in the high mountains. Cell coverage may be patchy or absent on the upper mountain, so do not rely on internet access. Good acclimatization and a backup plan are strongly recommended.

    Interesting Facts

    Schreckhorn is one of the most imposing peaks in the Bernese Alps and is often considered more serious than many higher but easier Swiss summits. Its name means “fright peak” or “terrifying horn,” reflecting its steep and dramatic appearance. The mountain was first climbed in 1865, during the golden age of alpine exploration. Despite its modest height compared with some Alpine giants, it remains a respected objective because of its remoteness, exposure, and technical difficulty.

    FAQ

    How long does it take to climb Schreckhorn? The summit climb usually takes 8 to 12 hours from the hut, depending on route, conditions, and team pace.

    How long does it take to approach Schreckhorn? The approach to the hut often takes 4 to 7 hours from the valley, with additional time needed for the summit day.

    Is there cell service and internet on the Schreckhorn? Coverage is unreliable and often absent on the upper mountain; internet is generally not available.

    How difficult is it to climb Schreckhorn? It is a difficult alpine climb with glacier travel, exposed rock, and objective hazards.

    Can beginners hike Schreckhorn? No, beginners should not attempt the summit; it is not a hiking mountain.

    How many people climb Schreckhorn? It is climbed by relatively few people each season compared with more accessible Swiss peaks.

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