Pushkin Peak, 5 033 m : sommet — Central North Caucasus
Géorgie · Asie

Pushkin Peak

5 033m
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Fait partie du défi « 5000ers of the Caucasus »

Pushkin Peak (also known as Pik Pushkina or P'ushk'inis P'ik'i) is a prominent high-altitude summit located in Georgia, sitting along the main crest of the Caucasus region on the border between Georgia and Russia. Reaching an elevation of 5,033 metres above sea level, it stands among the major 5,000-metre giants of the Central Caucasus.

Rising in a region defined by extreme relief and extensive glaciation, the peak is a notable objective for mountaineers. It is ranked as the 6th highest of 1,549 named peaks in Georgia and holds a position of distinction within the surrounding subranges.

Autres noms
P'ushk'inis P'ik'i, Pik Pushkina, Pushkin Peak, P’ushk’inis P’ik’i, pʼushkʼinis pʼikʼi, Пик Пушкина, პუშკინის პიკი, Восточная Джанги, ჯანღა, East Janghi
Altitude
5 033 m
16,512 ft
Région
Géorgie · Asie
Coordonnées
43.013, 43.071
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    Location and surroundings

    Pushkin Peak is situated in Western Asia within the Caucasus Mountains, forming part of the Greater Caucasus, the Central Caucasus, and specifically the Central North Caucasus. The mountain sits along the border zone separating Georgia from Russia.

    Standing at 5,033 metres, Pushkin Peak is the 6th highest peak in Georgia out of 1,549 named summits, and ranks 13th highest among the 861 named peaks of the Central North Caucasus. The surrounding landscape features steep rock faces, permanent ice, and glacier-filled basins.

    Neighbouring peaks

    Pushkin Peak is surrounded by several major high peaks and alpine passes:

    • Shota Rustaveli Peak (4,859 m) — 0.6 km south
    • Leningrad pass (4,750 m) — 1.0 km southeast
    • Mount Dzhangitau (5,074 m) — 1.2 km northwest
    • West Jangha (5,059 m) — 1.7 km northwest
    • West Shkhara (5,069 m) — 2.2 km southeast
    • Khalde-North Shkhara pass (4,200 m) — 2.5 km southeast
    • Khalde-Adishi pass (4,725 m) — 2.6 km northwest
    • Sakhlshi Darchenilta pass (4,432 m) — 2.9 km west

    The nearest higher summit is Mount Dzhangitau (5,074 m), located 1.2 km to the northwest.

    The view from the summit

    The summit of Pushkin Peak offers extensive views across the major 5,000-metre mountains of the region. Nearby high peaks within a 25 km radius include:

    • Katyntau (4,979 m) — 3.4 km northwest
    • Shkhara (5,193 m) — 3.8 km southeast
    • Mta Gistola (4,860 m) — 5.4 km northwest
    • Mta Tetnuldi (4,858 m) — 6.6 km west
    • Dykhtau (5,205 m) — 6.7 km northeast
    • Koshtantau (5,152 m) — 12.3 km east

    The range

    Pushkin Peak belongs to the Central North Caucasus, a subrange of the Greater Caucasus spanning Georgia and Russia. The range contains 861 named peaks and is home to some of the highest elevations in Europe and Western Asia.

    The high point of the Central North Caucasus is Mount Elbrus (5,642 m), which lies 64 km to the northwest of Pushkin Peak. Pushkin Peak ranks 13th by elevation in this subrange.

    Climbing routes

    Ascents of Pushkin Peak require serious technical mountaineering skills, with lines graded on the Russian (ex-Soviet) alpine scale. The northeast ridge presents a classic route graded 4B, which recorded its first ascent in 1888. A more direct and technical option is the east pillar route, graded 5A, first climbed in 1966.

    Other established ascents in the region include the south ridge line operating out of the Bezingi Glacier, as well as high-altitude ridge traverses connecting with neighboring peaks such as Dykhtau.

    Climate and weather

    Based on NASA POWER climate estimates adjusted for elevation, the climate at the summit of Pushkin Peak is arctic and severe year-round. The warmest month is July, with a mean summit temperature of about -4 °C, while the coldest is January at about -20 °C. No month of the year has a mean temperature above freezing at the summit.

    Precipitation in the surrounding high valley areas averages about 850 mm annually. May is typically the wettest month with about 90 mm of precipitation, while February is the driest with about 50 mm. High winds, rapid weather shifts, and severe cold present standard hazards at this altitude.

    Best time to visit

    Given that mean temperatures at the summit remain below freezing throughout the entire year, mountaineering on Pushkin Peak is heavily constrained by extreme weather. Mid to late summer, particularly July and August, generally brings the most manageable conditions and relatively stable weather windows despite sub-zero summit temperatures.

    Spring months experience higher precipitation levels around 90 mm per month, leading to increased avalanche risk, while mid-winter brings severe cold around -20 °C and high wind exposure.

    Nature and wildlife

    At over 5,000 metres above sea level, Pushkin Peak exists entirely within the nival zone. The environment consists of sheer rock walls, permanent snowfields, and active glacier systems, supporting no plant life at the higher elevations.

    In the surrounding lower valleys and approaches, alpine pastures host cold-hardy grasses and flora. Local mountain wildlife in the broader region includes high-altitude avian species such as eagles and bearded vultures, as well as mountain ungulates adapted to steep, rocky terrain.

    Guides and organised ascents

    Climbing a 5,000-metre Caucasus peak demands technical glacier travel, rock climbing, and high-altitude experience. Hiring a qualified mountain guide is strongly advised for visitors exploring high-altitude routes in Georgia.

    The national guiding organization is the Georgian Mountain Guides Association (GMGA), which is a member of IFMGA/UIAGM. The national alpine organisation is the United Federation of Georgian Mountaineers (UFGM). Local guiding services, such as the Mountain Travel Agency (MTA) based in Stepantsminda, operate guided mountaineering trips within Georgia. Guided ascents typically include route logistics, technical gear support, and safety management, with costs depending on duration and group size.

    Safety and preparation

    Ascending Pushkin Peak demands thorough acclimatisation, cold-weather clothing, and full technical equipment for ice and rock climbing. Climbers must be prepared for extreme frostbite hazards, crevasses, and rapid storms.

    In case of emergency in Georgia, call 112, the unified emergency service that dispatches mountain rescue assets. Climbers should install the official 112 Georgia smartphone app, which allows users to transmit exact GPS coordinates to rescue teams.

    History and name

    Pushkin Peak was named in honour of the famous Russian poet Alexander Pushkin. Located in the central section of the Main Caucasus Range, the summit has a long mountaineering tradition dating back to the late 19th century, with its northeast ridge line first climbed in 1888.

    Interesting facts

    Standing at 5,033 metres, Pushkin Peak is one of the few summits in the Caucasus exceeding the 5,000-metre threshold. It ranks as the 6th highest peak in Georgia and sits directly on the watershed border between Georgia and Russia. Its high point is located just 1.2 km away from its slightly higher neighbor, Mount Dzhangitau (5,074 m).

    FAQ

    How high is Pushkin Peak? Pushkin Peak stands at an elevation of 5,033 metres above sea level.

    Where is Pushkin Peak located? It is located on the border between Georgia and Russia in the Central Caucasus, ranking as the 6th highest peak in Georgia.

    Are there huts on Pushkin Peak? Climbers operating on the northern approaches frequently use the Bezingi Alpine Camp at 2,200 metres as a base. Higher on the peak itself, there are no permanent huts, so climbers carry high-altitude tents.

    How hard is it to climb Pushkin Peak? Ascending Pushkin Peak requires serious technical mountaineering skills. The standard northeast ridge is graded 4B on the Russian scale, while harder routes such as the east pillar are graded 5A.

    Is there water on the way to Pushkin Peak? Climbers must melt snow and ice using camp stoves. Lower down near glacier margins, meltwater streams exist but should be purified before drinking. Climbers should carry 1.5 to 3 litres of fluid per day during alpine approaches.

    What is the mobile phone coverage like on Pushkin Peak? Mobile coverage in deep mountain valleys and high ridges of the Caucasus is patchy and unpromising. Emergency calls can be placed to 112 over any active network signal, and offline maps should always be downloaded prior to departure.

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