Copa, 6 188 m : sommet — White Cordillera
Copa
Pérou · Amérique du Sud

Copa

6 188m
Altitude
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Gravi
0
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Ondando / CC BY 3.0 / Wikimedia Commons

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Copa is a 6,188 m peak in the White Cordillera of the Andes in Peru. It lies in Ancash, in the municipality of Marcará, within the Huascarán protected area. With its height, it is one of the major summits of the range and ranks among the highest named peaks in the White Cordillera.

The mountain is part of the high glaciated landscape of the Cordillera Blanca, where steep ice, rock, and long approaches are normal. Copa is known for its west-face normal route and for its position near several other big peaks, including Hualcán and Huascarán. The summit area lies inside the Huascarán Biosphere Reserve.

Autres noms
Copa
Altitude
6 188 m
20,302 ft
Coordonnées
-9.270, -77.481
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    Location and surroundings

    Copa belongs to the Andes chain, within the Central Andes, Western Cordillera, and the White Cordillera in Peru. It is in Ancash, in the municipality of Marcará. By elevation it is the 18th highest named peak in Peru and the 9th highest named peak in the White Cordillera. The mountain rises above a high alpine landscape of glacier, rock, and steep valleys, inside the Huascarán protected area.

    Neighbouring peaks

    • Paccharaju — 5,744 m, 5.3 km east
    • Nevado Yahuina — 5,758 m, 6.4 km northwest
    • Nevado Hualcán — 6,122 m, 8.5 km northwest
    • Urus Central — 5,495 m, 10.3 km south
    • Urus Oeste — 5,423 m, 10.7 km southeast
    • Cerro Pausha Irca — 3,428 m, 12.0 km southwest
    • Cerro Huanto Jirca — 3,365 m, 12.1 km southwest
    • Nevado Chajiaco — 5,512 m, 12.2 km northwest

    Copa is higher than all of these nearby peaks except the great summits farther away in the cordillera. Hualcán is the closest of the other six-thousanders listed here, while the lower Urus and foothill peaks mark the transition from glacier country to the lower valleys.

    The view from the summit

    From Copa, the main high peaks within 25 km are Huascarán at 6,768 m, 21.3 km northwest; Huascarán Norte at 6,655 m, 24.2 km northwest; Nevados Chopicallqui at 6,354 m, 22.7 km northwest; Chinchey at 6,309 m, 20.8 km southeast; Palcaraju at 6,190 m, 16.3 km southeast; and Ranrapalca at 6,162 m, 17.3 km southeast. These are the big names likely to dominate the skyline on a clear day.

    The range

    Copa is part of the White Cordillera, whose highest peak is Huascarán at 6,768 m, about 21 km northwest of Copa. The White Cordillera has 167 named peaks Used here, and Copa ranks 9th by elevation among them. The range lies in Peru and is one of the best-known glaciated mountain groups in the tropical Andes.

    Climbing routes

    The easiest listed line is the West face (normal route), graded PD+ on the alpine scale, with III engagement, about 3,000 m of ascent and usually 4 days on the mountain. It faces west. This is the standard line to mention for Copa.

    Access and starting points

    Sources place Copa in the Ancash highlands near Marcará, and older route descriptions mention access from the west via the road from Marcará toward Hacienda Copa Chico. Another approach mentioned in mountain literature runs from the south through Quebrada Honda, Quebrada Ruripaccha, and Laguna Paccharuri. The usual base for Cordillera Blanca climbing is Yungay, with Huaraz serving as the main regional hub.

    Climate and weather

    These are estimates from NASA POWER climate data for 2001–2020, adjusted to summit elevation. The warmest month at the summit is October, at about -3 °C; the coldest is June, at about -5 °C. No month averages above freezing at the top. Around the mountain, annual precipitation is about 350 mm; December is the wettest month at about 60 mm, and June the driest at about 10 mm. Expect cold nights, strong sun, wind, and changing snow conditions.

    Best time to visit

    Because the summit stays below freezing all year, the most practical climbing window is the drier part of the year, when snowfall and storm activity are usually lower. The monthly figures point to June as the driest month around the mountain, with the wet season building toward December. For a high glaciated peak like Copa, stable weather, firm snow, and early starts matter more than warmth.

    Nature and wildlife

    Copa lies inside the Huascarán Biosphere Reserve, in a landscape of glacier, moraine, rock, and high puna slopes. Vegetation is sparse at these elevations, with grassland and hardy alpine plants lower down, then bare ground and ice higher up. Wildlife in the wider region can include Andean birds and mammals adapted to cold, thin air, but the summit zone itself is mostly a mineral and ice environment. Meltwater from the mountain feeds local valleys and lakes.

    Guides and organised ascents

    For a 6,188 m glaciated peak, a certified guide is sensible unless you already have strong alpine experience, crevasse rescue skills, and acclimatisation. In Peru, the national guide association is the Peruvian Mountain Guides Association (AGMP), an IFMGA/UIAGM member. The national federation is FEDPE. Climbers often look to established companies such as Skyline Adventures and Peruvian Andes Adventures in Huaraz. In Huascarán National Park, an entry ticket and a mountaineering permit are required.

    Safety and preparation

    Copa demands glacier travel, route-finding, and comfort with cold, altitude, and long days. The normal route is not technically extreme, but the height, the 3,000 m of ascent, and the possibility of crevasses and changing snow make preparation important. Carry proper glacier gear, warm layers, sun protection, and enough food and water for a long mountain day. For rescue in Peru, the emergency number is 105 for the National Police high-mountain rescue unit; the USAM Yungay base can also be reached at (043) 39-3333, and Socorro Andino Peruano is available 24/7 at +51 943 081 066.

    History and name

    The mountain was first climbed on 26 September 1932 by Erwin Hein and Erwin Schneider of Austria. The name Copa is often linked to the Quechua word qupa, referring to turquoise or the turquoise colour. The peak is also known by other names in older usage, including Chucushcaraju, Pamparaju, and Carhuacatac.

    Interesting facts

    Copa is the 9th highest named peak in the White Cordillera and the 18th highest named peak in Peru. Its topographic prominence is about 2,907 m, and its nearest key col is at 3,253 m. The closest higher major summit in the range is Hualcán, which also serves as Copa’s parent peak. The mountain has a topographic isolation of 8.6 km, and its summit area lies within the Huascarán protected landscape.

    FAQ

    How high is Copa? Copa reaches 6,188 m above sea level.

    Where is Copa located? It is in Ancash, Peru, in the municipality of Marcará, within the White Cordillera of the Andes.

    How hard is it to climb Copa? The easiest listed route is the West face (normal route), graded PD+ with III engagement. Harder conditions can come from glacier travel, crevasses, and the long 3,000 m ascent.

    Are there huts on Copa? OpenStreetMap shows no hut or shelter within 2 km of the top, so hikers usually plan the ascent as a day trip or carry their own tent.

    Is there water on the way to Copa? Expect to rely mainly on snowmelt and water carried from lower down. At this altitude, streams may be seasonal and glacier water should be treated. For a long day, carry about 1.5–3 litres per person, depending on heat and effort.

    How long does the climb take? The normal route usually takes about 4 days on the mountain.

    Is mobile coverage reliable? Coverage in the hills is patchy and depends on the operator. On open ground it may be available, but deep valleys and ridges can block it. 112 reaches emergency services over any available network, and maps should be downloaded before setting out.

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