Ala-Archa, 4 088 m : sommet — Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
Kirghizstan · Asie

Ala-Archa

4 088m
Altitude
0
Gravi
0
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Ala-Archa — peak, au Kirghizstan, Asie. Massif : Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range. Altitude : 4 088 m (13 412 ft). Coordonnées : 42.4671, 74.4790.

Autres noms
Ала-Арча
Altitude
4 088 m
13,412 ft
Région
Kirghizstan · Asie
Coordonnées
42.467, 74.479
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    Location and surroundings

    Geographically, Ala-Archa belongs to the Central Asia > Tian Shan > Central Tian Shan > Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range hierarchy. The mountain is located in Kyrgyzstan, specifically within the Alamüdün District. The Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range itself spans Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Within its specific range, Ala-Archa ranks as the 68th highest of 143 named peaks. The surrounding landscape consists of high mountain ridges, valleys, and glacial features typical of the Tian Shan system.

    Neighbouring peaks

    The immediate surroundings of Ala-Archa feature several nearby summits and mountain passes:

    • Uglovoi (peak): elevation unknown, 1.0 km SE
    • Klyuv (peak): 4,107 m, 1.2 km S
    • Nomads Peak (peak): 3,460 m, 1.5 km N
    • Pik Studentov (peak): 4,279 m, 1.7 km S
    • Pik Meteostantsii (peak): 3,393 m, 1.9 km N
    • Shesterykh (mountain pass): 3,900 m, 2.0 km S
    • Manas (peak): 4,306 m, 2.3 km S
    • Zabor (peak): elevation unknown, 2.4 km E
    The nearest higher peak is Klyuv at 4,107 m, located 1.2 km south of Ala-Archa.

    The view from the summit

    From the top of Ala-Archa, climbers can observe several major peaks within a 25 km radius. The highest peaks visible in the surrounding area include Semionova Tien-Shanskogo at 4,895 m (9.7 km NE), Pastukhova at 4,850 m (20.0 km E), Kirgizstan at 4,840 m (19.4 km E), Svobodnaya Koreya at 4,777 m (6.3 km NE), Angela Davis Peak at 4,686 m (22.9 km E), and Iskra at 4,639 m (23.7 km E).

    The range

    Ala-Archa is part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, a mountain chain that spans Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. The highest peak of this range is Semionova Tien-Shanskogo, reaching an elevation of 4,895 m and located 10 km northeast of Ala-Archa. The range contains 143 named peaks, among which Ala-Archa holds the 68th rank by elevation.

    Climbing routes

    There are four routes to the summit of Ala-Archa, all graded on the Russian (ex-Soviet) scale from 1Б to 6Б. The easiest way up is by the couloir from the southeast, graded Russian 2Б. Other lines include the east ridge at grade 3А, first climbed in 1987; the northeast pillar at grade 3Б, first climbed in 1987; and the north rib at grade 4А, also first climbed in 1987.

    Climate and weather

    Based on NASA POWER climate data estimates from 2001 to 2020 adjusted to the summit elevation, the mean temperature at the top of Ala-Archa is warmest in July at about 3 °C and coldest in January at about -18 °C. Precipitation in the surrounding area totals about 400 mm a year, with April being the wettest month at about 65 mm and August the driest at about 15 mm. Typical regional weather hazards include sudden high-altitude storms, strong winds, and rapid temperature drops.

    Best time to visit

    The months with a mean temperature above freezing at the summit are June, July, and August. Combined with drier summer months such as August, this period offers the most favourable conditions for climbing and high-altitude exploration in the region.

    Nature and wildlife

    The terrain around Ala-Archa features high-altitude alpine zones, rocky ridges, and glacial valleys. Vegetation is sparse due to the elevation, giving way to hardy alpine plants. The summit and surrounding areas are situated within the Ala-Archa Nature Park, a protected area designed to preserve the local high-mountain ecosystem.

    Guides and organised ascents

    For high-altitude climbing and challenging terrain, hiring a certified guide is strongly advisable. In Kyrgyzstan, visitors can turn to the Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association, which is an IFMGA/UIAGM member, or the national alpine club, the Kyrgyz Alpine Club. Established guiding companies operating in the region include ITMC Tien-Shan (International Travel & Mountaineering Centre) based in Bishkek. Guided ascents typically cover logistics, route planning, and safety management, with costs depending on the duration, group size, and technical requirements. Note that certain climbing areas in Kyrgyzstan lie in border zones requiring a permit arranged 4–5 weeks in advance through a tour operator.

    Safety and preparation

    The elevation and technical nature of Ala-Archa demand thorough physical preparation, proper acclimatisation, and full glacier or rock-climbing equipment. In case of an emergency, the unified emergency number of the Ministry of Emergency Situations in Kyrgyzstan is 112, which runs a mountain rescue service. Because rescue in remote areas is limited, expeditions generally rely on their own operator or team resources.

    Interesting facts

    Ala-Archa is the 68th highest among the 143 named peaks in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range. Its nearest higher neighbour is Klyuv, located just 1.2 km to the south at 4,107 m. The high point of the entire range, Semionova Tien-Shanskogo, lies 10 km to the northeast.

    FAQ

    How high is Ala-Archa? Ala-Archa reaches an elevation of 4,088 m.

    Where is Ala-Archa located? It is located in Kyrgyzstan within the Alamüdün District, part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range in Central Asia.

    What range does the mountain belong to? It belongs to the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, which is part of the Central Tian Shan and Tian Shan mountain systems.

    What are the nearest peaks to Ala-Archa? The closest peaks include Klyuv (4,107 m, 1.2 km S), Uglovoi (1.0 km SE), Pik Studentov (4,279 m, 1.7 km S), and Manas (4,306 m, 2.3 km S).

    Are there huts on Ala-Archa? Yes, the Zabroshennaya khizhina glyatsiologov (Заброшенная хижина гляциологов) alpine hut is located 1.2 km northeast of the summit.

    Is there water on the way to Ala-Archa? Natural water sources include seasonal snowmelt near glaciers, which must be treated before drinking. Climbers should carry 1.5 to 3 litres of water for a day depending on weather conditions and route length.

    How hard is it to climb Ala-Archa? The easiest route is the couloir from the southeast, graded Russian 2Б. Harder lines include the east ridge (3А), northeast pillar (3Б), and north rib (4А), which require technical alpine climbing skills.

    What is the mobile phone coverage like? Coverage in the high mountains is generally patchy and depends on the operator. However, the emergency number 112 reaches services over any available network, and digital maps should always be downloaded before setting out.

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