Southeast face

Approach

From the village of Olleros, 2 variants are possible:

- an approach that is done by a long trail crossing open fields. It is possible to hire a donkey to carry the gear; count on about 100 soles for the donkey driver and the animal (approx. 27 USD), allowing up to 40 kg of loads to be carried for about 11 km in 4h. The donkey driver usually stops at the beginning of the rocky terrain, where the progression must then continue with the packs on the back.

- it is also possible to ask a villager who owns a 4×4 to go up the trail to the nearest moraine, then continue on foot with the packs from there.

On the moraine, an important point of vigilance: by heading toward the obvious summit of Shaqsha, a large rock tower blocks the way. The correct route goes by the left.

There are several possible bivouac spots at the level of this tower.

Route

Cross the glacier until arriving at the foot of the southeast face.

The climb then begins, about 8-9 pitches to reach the summit - the first in a 60 degree slope, which becomes increasingly steep, up to 2 or 3 80-85 degree steps depending on conditions. We move onto the south face for the last 2 pitches.

Belay station on Abalakov.