Claudio Bocco — Punta Udine, vía de escalada | Pick a Peak

Claudio Bocco

Punta Udine · 3 022 m · Monte Viso Alps · Italia

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Tiempo
3 h
Desnivel de las dificultades
150 m
Grado alpino francés
TD− difícil
FED4
Orientación
N, NE
Equipamiento
P1
Escalada libre
6a+

Descripción

A little-repeated route, though pleasant, somewhat isolated for the moment on this face clearly visible from the Giacoletti refuge.

Approach · 15min

From the Giacoletti refuge, follow the face of Punta Udine, then climb up and traverse as best you can the unpleasant scree toward the right-hand part of the big slab. "CB" inscribed at the base.

Route

L15a30 mClimb the lichen-covered slab easily to the belay station placed under the wall where it steepens. Protection a bit spaced out.
L26a+30 mPhysical step then easier slab. The belay station is located in the slab.
L36a30 mTrending to the right, a few slightly more technical moves when it steepens, belay station on the ridge of the ridge.
L45c30 mOne move at the start, then lichen-covered slab. From the starting belay station, down and to the right, you can see the abseil belay station that will be used on the descent.
L55b35 mSlab. Belay station just below the crest line.

Descent

2 off-axis abseils: From R5, go straight down the slab to find a belay station made of two blue-painted plates and fitted with quicklinks. Warning: a route being equipped includes a temporary belay station a little higher up and to the right of the correct belay station - unless you have a 60 m rope, this new belay station does not lead down.

From this blue-painted belay station, head straight toward big impressive overhangs, abseil in spiderweb fashion in a stark atmosphere, 50 m to the ground.

Material

  • 10 quickdraws are enough
  • A few cams if you want to continue on the ridge to the crest

Historia de la vía

In August 2004 by Beppe Canepa, Fiorenzo Michelin, (belay stations re-equipped in 2011).

The route is dedicated, as its name indicates, to Claudio Bocco, who shared many rope teams with Michelin.

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Refugios a menos de 10 km, casas rurales y campings a menos de 5 km

Refugios y alojamiento cercanos

Datos © OpenStreetMap

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    Fuente: camptocamp.org · texto bajo licencia CC BY-SA 4.0