Arête d'Annibal
From Bourg Saint Bernard, first climb under the ski lifts of the ski station. At 2200 m the slope becomes steeper. A few cairns are placed at the start, then find a trail track a little higher up. Climb back up the big grassy slope, always on the right bank of the torrent, until reaching the foot of the west face of Mont Vélan. Pull right, following the glacier of which little remains, to reach the clearly visible Annibal col, which opens at 3000 m altitude. Attack the Annibal ridge, which climbs in one go to the summit. By feeling around a little, eventually find the logical route, sometimes on the ridge, sometimes below it. The ridge is about 700 m of elevation gain, with a small shoulder halfway up. Use your hands, but nothing too serious when the rock is very dry. You can follow the ridge line, which is generally on decent rock with interesting passages (except for a stretch of rotten yellow rock around 3/4 of the way up): III passages. AD grade if you follow the ridge line strictly. The rock quickly becomes very loose when you move away from the ridge.
At the very top emerge onto the sub-summit by a beautiful slab. Finally, all that remains is to reach the true summit of Vélan by crossing the summit glacier for a short time, then a few easy rocks.
By the same route.
- 1st route (on the descent): 1826 - D'Allèves, Marquis (monks of the hospice of Grand-Saint-Bernard).
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Take the normal route to Col Annibal. Nothing complicated. In spring, the west slope below p. 2794 is often ski on the back / footpath.
Detalles →From the Vélan hut, cross the Tseudet glacier and reach the foot of the goulotte via a snow slope.
Detalles →From the Vélan hut, follow the west moraine of the Tseudet glacier (follow the water supply pipe from the hut, cairns) then head onto the glacier in the direction of Mont de la Gouille, staying away from the north face of the Vélan (serac fall).
Detalles →From the Rosazza bivouac at Savoie (2651 m), take the path to the left (northwest) that allows you to enter the valley descending from Col de Valsorey. The path continues almost flat on the left bank (good track, cairns) until it crosses the stream. After crossing it, follow the cairns (now more…
Detalles →From the Vélan hut, the easiest approach route passes at the foot of the rock marked by point 3091 m. Ascend the glacier to the northwest foot of this rock to about 2960 m, then join the 3000 m contour line by the center. Continue ascending the glacier by its center until the bergschrund. About 2h…
Detalles →From the Vélan hut, climb up the moraine (cairn), step onto the glacier shortly before 2700 m and climb 100 m more before traversing the Tseudet glacier. Beware, it is important to stay as low as possible, because serac falls throw debris over an impressive distance. The ascent to the Gouille col…
Detalles →Fuente: camptocamp.org · texto bajo licencia CC BY-SA 4.0
