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From Partnun P6 (6 francs/day), take the road then the trail leading to Partnunsee (lake). Continue on the trail to the left of the lake. The face is on your left.
Follow the trail to the base of the face where the route starts. Good eyes will find the route name marked on the rock as well as the first bolt 5 m up.
| L1 | 5a+ | 45 m | 4g | Start on a slab then warm up on structured rock. Stay well to the left on modern bolts. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | 5b+ | 40 m | 4g | Climb slightly to the right. |
| L3 | 5c+ | 40 m | 6g | Climb pressing to the left this time. Look for bolts that mark the way. |
| L4 | 6a+ | 43 m | 9g | Many bolts, no difficulty finding the route. Technical climbing requiring good footwork and some confidence on your feet. |
| L5 | 4c | 35 m | Gain the large grassy ledge as best you can (very wet walls, equipment invisible, friends can be pleasant). | |
| L6 | Walk | Go up the grassy slopes then gain the face and the belay to the left of the overhang (obvious trail). | ||
| L7 | 4c | 45 m | 2g | Climb directly up the face, in a straight line. |
| L8 | 4b | 40 m | 2g | Climb slightly to the right, very easy finish to the belay (walk). |
| L9 | 5b+ | 40 m | 5g | Straight up then to the right. A little friction for the finish. |
| L10 | Walk | Go up the grassy slopes slightly to the right. | ||
| L11 | 5c+ | 42 m | 5g | Climb straight up, a slight shift to the right requires good confidence in your feet. |
| L12 | 3b | 30 m | 2g | Obvious shift to the left on the ledge. |
| L13 | 6b | 40 m | 7g | Start by climbing the slab slightly to the left then cross the small well-protected overhang (key section). Climb another ten metres or so to a small terrace. |
| L14 | 6a+ | 28 m | 6g | From the terrace, make a shift to the left to gain the small columns. Then fairly technical direct climbing. |
| L15 | 5c+ | 40 m | 6g | Climb as directly as possible on a superb compact wall. |
Then continue by easy climbing and grassy slopes to the summit of the ridge.
On exiting join the karst field, follow the hiking trail, then continue descending on the karst following the cairns to reach the trail to the caves on the Swiss side. Finally descend easily along this trail.
- possibly 4/5 Friends from 0.3 to 2
- Limestone generally very sound.
- Equipment relatively spaced out on the easy pitches, however little place to place additional equipment.
- Good equipment on the key pitches.
Equipment: Vital Eggenberger and Egon Stecker KCR 2001
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Was die Karte zeigt
Berghütte · 2 236 m (582 m unter dem Gipfel) · 80 Betten · SAC - CAS
Berghütte · 1 744 m (1 074 m unter dem Gipfel) · 163 Betten · DAV Sektion Lindau
Berghütte · 2 212 m (606 m unter dem Gipfel) · 140 Betten · Sektion Vorarlberg
Unterstand
Unbewirtschaftete Hütte · 1 235 m (1 583 m unter dem Gipfel) · 24 Betten · DAV-Konstanz
Berghütte · 1 976 m (842 m unter dem Gipfel) · Österreichischer Alpenverein Sektion Vorarlberg
Berghütte · 1 776 m (1 042 m unter dem Gipfel) · 80 Betten · Sektion Vorarlberg
Unbewirtschaftete Hütte · 1 663 m (1 155 m unter dem Gipfel)
Berghütte · 2 381 m (437 m unter dem Gipfel) · Österreichischer Alpenverein Sektion Vorarlberg
Daten © OpenStreetMap
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Quelle: camptocamp.org · Text unter CC BY-SA 4.0
