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Arête SE
- From the Arrémoulit refuge (2303 m), gain the Col du Palas (2517 m), follow the old white-red-white markings to go around Piton Von Martin by the south and gain Port du Lavedan (2615 m).
- From the Larribet refuge (2070 m), take the path that runs along the Batcrabère lakes, going around the first buttress of the Garénère, or by climbing to the notch as mentioned on the IGN map (but be careful not to climb onto the balconies that overhang the lakes, a cairned and misleading path follows them). Then climb to the first of the Micoulaou lakes and, from there, follow the white-red-white markings of the HRP to Port du Lavedan (2615 m).
From Port du Lavedan, avoid the first step by a slightly grassy chimney (III max) to its left (by the Arriel lake slope). Coming from the south, it is possible not to take the chimney that climbs to the col of Lavedan itself but to take a couloir that leads left directly to the foot of the 1st step.
The ridge crest is then followed horizontally without difficulty (II).
A short second step is crossed by a small dihedral (2 m, III+).
After a bit of walking the third step starts with a fairly wide couloir (watch out for loose rock!) that allows you to come back right onto the ridge crest (beautiful platform with cairn). Then climb a beautiful crack leaning to the left (III+) followed by a dihedral. Continue by an easy couloir for 20 m. You arrive below a small overhang. There, 2 options:
1- go left (iti. F. Laurens): slab, 1 piton then 2 pitons (to be confirmed),
2- go right: you end up on a fissured slab that is not easy to protect (1 piton in the middle of the slab and 1 piton at the exit). - It is more interesting to follow a ledge to the right that allows you to come back onto the ridge crest to take a fissured slab (1p, IV-) from which you exit to the right onto a platform (magnificent airy length). A small dihedral follows and is crossed first in layback by a crack to the left before joining its bottom (III+).-
Then the ridge continues with rope-stretched progression as close as possible to the crest, going around small gendarmes (II, a few steps of III).
- By the Geodesians ridge (north ridge) - PD-, normal route. No II. Cairns.
- By the Ledormeur chimney: this is the fastest but you must be careful about rockfall if there are many people.
From the summit, descend SSW by a couloir for about a hundred meters. Drop onto the south slope by a cairned path leading to the exit of the Ledormeur chimney (many cairns at the entrance). In fact it is the 1st chimney encountered. Downclimb 150 m, always keeping left (II, abseil rings not mandatory at the entrance then for the last 40 steeper meters). Do not commit to the secondary couloir on the right halfway up even if it seems attractive (red cross)! Then by a horizontal ledge continue southeast before committing to the right into a descending ledge that allows you to reach the cirque and then the path between Port du Lavedan and Col du Palas.
NB: To go back down to the Larribet refuge, the fastest is to descend the Orteig-Ledormeur chimney. A (long) alternative is to take the Geodesians ridge, then, from the Geodesians notch, go around Pic d'Artouste by the west, before descending the Batbielh cirque.
Camalots 0.75 - 1 - 2 or friends 2 to 3
Slings 60 and 120.
Ideal ridge for initiation
- First partial traverse (on the descent, after the first ascent of the Von Martin ridge): 6 August 1909 - Von Martin, H. Riebeling, Hans (literature.at).
- First ascent: 30 July 1937 - Julien Arruyer, Robert Ollivier, Armand Petitjean.
Campingplatz
Campingplatz
Campingplatz
Campingplatz
Campingplatz
Berghütte · 2 265 m (709 m unter dem Gipfel) · 28 Betten · Club Alpin Français
Berghütte · 2 072 m (902 m unter dem Gipfel) · 60 Betten · Club Alpin Français
Campingplatz
Campingplatz
Unterstand · 988 m (1 986 m unter dem Gipfel)
Berghütte · 1 884 m (1 090 m unter dem Gipfel) · 12 Betten · Club Alpin Français
Berghütte · 2 278 m (696 m unter dem Gipfel) · 34 Betten · Club Alpin Français
Unterstand · 1 752 m (1 222 m unter dem Gipfel) · 4 Betten
Unterstand
Unterstand · 2 110 m (864 m unter dem Gipfel)
Unbewirtschaftete Hütte · 1 451 m (1 523 m unter dem Gipfel) · 3 Betten
Unbewirtschaftete Hütte
Unbewirtschaftete Hütte · 1 415 m (1 559 m unter dem Gipfel) · 6 Betten
Unterstand · 1 824 m (1 150 m unter dem Gipfel)
Unbewirtschaftete Hütte · 1 668 m (1 306 m unter dem Gipfel) · 1 Bett
Unbewirtschaftete Hütte · 1 670 m (1 304 m unter dem Gipfel) · 8 Betten
Unterstand
Unterstand · 1 590 m (1 384 m unter dem Gipfel)
Unterstand
Unbewirtschaftete Hütte · 4 Betten
Unterstand
Berghütte · 2 032 m (942 m unter dem Gipfel) · 45 Betten · Club Alpin Français
Unbewirtschaftete Hütte · 1 630 m (1 344 m unter dem Gipfel) · 6 Betten
Daten © OpenStreetMap
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Classic ascent to Larribet refuge then Lac de Batcrabère and Lac de Micoulaou and follow a well-marked trail leading to the Port du Lavedan. Around 2400 m leave the path and take the broad scree slope to Col de Barane 2643 m, then bear left east to reach the summit 2703 m. Descend to the col then…
Details →From the Arrémoulit hut, head east towards the Col du Palas. At Palas lake (2359 m), head due north to skirt around the Palas. Progress is by sight through sometimes unstable scree, threading as best you can between the rocky steps, then gradually trending east towards the Notch of the Geodesists…
Details →From the Arrémoulit refuge, follow the trail to the Col du Palas. Before tackling the final ascent, bear left to reach directly via a large grassy step and scree the notch at the foot of the Piton.
Details →From the Arrémoulit refuge (2305 m), gain the Col du Palas (2517 m) following the old white-red-white markings. Go around Piton Von Martin on the south side. From the col, traverse toward Port du Lavedan, following the markings and ledges. You then cross a ridge line that blocks the view of the…
Details →Quelle: camptocamp.org · Text unter CC BY-SA 4.0
