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Via Ferrata Lipella

3B | AD+/D− | III/IV Edit route
Via Ferrata Lipella is one of the best-known routes on Tofana di Rozes and is widely documented as a classic Dolomite ferrata. It is not a hiking trail; it is a serious protected alpine route with long exposed sections. The route includes the famous tunnel passage through the mountain, followed by steep and airy climbing on fixed cables and ladders. Although the technical difficulty is moderate by climbing standards, the exposure is substantial throughout. Helmets and ferrata equipment are essential, and the route can be hazardous in bad weather or when crowded. It is a major objective in the Cortina area and a recognized summit route on this peak.

Route Outline

Rifugio Dibona -> approach to the south-west face
Enter the tunnel section and traverse the protected ledges of the Lipella route
Climb the steep wall and exposed passages toward the upper mountain
Reach the summit area of Tofana di Rozes
Descend by the same route or via a suitable descent line

More routes on Tofana di Rozes

Via Normale

3A | AD | III
The Via Normale is the established standard mountaineering route on Tofana di Rozes. It follows a complex system of ledges, gullies, and ramps on the mountain’s south-west side rather than a simple ridge line. The route is generally considered a serious alpine climb, with route-finding being one of its main challenges. Rock quality is variable, and loose sections can be encountered. Conditions can make the route significantly more difficult, especially when wet or with lingering snow. It is a classic Dolomite ascent and is documented in major alpine guidebooks.
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