Southwest Ridge (Arête du Ferpècle)
This is the classic and most frequently cited normal route on Dent Blanche. It is a long alpine climb combining glacier travel, steep snow, and sustained ridge climbing on exposed rock. The route is technically serious because route-finding on the upper ridge is complex and the terrain is often loose or icy. Objective hazards include crevasses on the approach, rockfall, and rapidly changing weather. The final ridge is very exposed and requires confident movement on mixed ground. It is generally regarded as a demanding high-alpine ascent rather than a simple snow climb.
Route Outline
Ferpècle or Arolla side approach -> Cabane de la Dent Blanche
Climb to the Col de la Dent Blanche / upper glacier basin
Gain the Southwest Ridge (Arête du Ferpècle)
Follow the ridge over mixed rock and snow to the summit
Descend by the same route