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South Side Route

2A | PD | II Edit route
The South Side Route is the standard and most frequently climbed route on Mount Hood. It is a snow-and-ice mountaineering route rather than a hiking trail, and it commonly requires crampons, an ice axe, and glacier travel skills. The route is exposed to objective hazards including rockfall, icefall, crevasses, and rapidly changing weather. In late season, the upper mountain can become steep and icy, especially through the Hogsback and summit chutes. The exact line can vary with snow conditions, but it remains the classic documented ascent route on the mountain. It is generally considered the least technical of Hood's major climbing routes, though still serious alpine terrain.

Route Outline

Timberline Lodge / climber trailhead -> Palmer Glacier / Palmer Snowfield
Climb the standard south-side snow route past the Hogsback area
Pass the Pearly Gates or Old Chute depending on conditions
Continue to the summit crater and summit rim
Descend the same route

More routes on Mount Hood

Leuthold Couloir

3A | AD | III
The Leuthold Couloir is a classic steep alpine route on Mount Hood's southwest side. It is significantly more technical than the South Side Route and is typically climbed in firm snow or mixed conditions. The couloir is narrow and can be threatened by rockfall and avalanche hazard, especially when conditions are unstable or warming. Route-finding and timing are important because the line funnels debris and can change character through the season. It is a well-known documented climbing route on the peak. Parties often use it as an ascent line and descend by a different route when conditions allow.
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Cooper Spur Route

3A | AD | III
The Cooper Spur Route is one of Mount Hood's historic and established alpine routes. It ascends the north side via the prominent Cooper Spur and is generally more committing than the standard south-side climb. The route involves steep snow, exposed climbing, and complex terrain that can include rock and ice depending on conditions. It is known for objective hazards such as rockfall and avalanche danger, particularly in warm or unstable weather. The route is a classic mountaineering objective on Hood and is well documented in climbing references. It is usually considered a serious route requiring solid alpine judgment and experience.
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North Face Route

4A | D | IV
The North Face Route is a major alpine line on Mount Hood and is substantially more serious than the standard routes. It climbs steep snow and ice on the mountain's north side and can involve sustained technical climbing. Conditions on the face vary widely, and the route may present avalanche, icefall, and rockfall hazards. It is a recognized mountaineering objective rather than a hiking ascent. Because of its seriousness, parties typically need strong ice-climbing and alpine route-finding skills. It is documented among the classic climbing routes on Mount Hood.
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