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South Ridge from the Kanderfirn / Mutthornhütte side

2A | PD | II Edit route
This is the standard documented alpine route to Mutthorn and is generally described as a straightforward glacier-and-ridge ascent. The route is usually climbed from the Mutthornhütte/Kanderfirn side, with an approach over snow or glacier to the south ridge. The climbing itself is mostly easy, but conditions can change the difficulty significantly, especially on the glacier approach and on any exposed ridge sections. Route-finding is usually simple in good visibility, though crevasses and late-season snow bridges can be a concern. The summit ridge is typically non-technical but can feel airy in firm or icy conditions. It is a classic Bernese Alps alpine outing rather than a technical rock climb.

Route Outline

Mutthornhütte area or Kanderfirn approach
Cross glacier terrain to the south ridge
Follow the ridge over mixed snow and rock
Continue on the broad summit ridge
Summit of Mutthorn
Return by the ascent route