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South Face Route

4A | D | IV Edit route
The south side of Belukha is another established alpine route and is generally treated as a technical mountain climb rather than a hike. It is known for sustained snow and ice climbing on the upper mountain, with glacier approach and complex route-finding. The route is exposed to rockfall, icefall, and avalanche danger, especially in warm conditions or after fresh snowfall. Depending on the exact variant, climbers may use high camps or bivouacs on the approach to the summit. The summit section is typically the most committing part of the climb, with steep terrain and serious consequences for errors. This route is suitable only for experienced teams with alpine equipment and glacier travel skills.

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North Face Route

4A | D | IV
The north side of Belukha is the classic alpine objective on the mountain and is documented as a serious snow-and-ice climb rather than a trekking route. It is typically approached from the Russian side via the Aktru/Belukha area or from the Katun region, depending on the chosen access and season. The route involves glacier travel, steep snow slopes, and exposed upper-mountain terrain with objective hazards from avalanches, seracs, and rapidly changing weather. Conditions can vary substantially from year to year, so the exact line and difficulty depend on the chosen variant and current glacier state. It is a full mountaineering ascent requiring ropework, crevasse rescue competence, and alpine experience. Belukha’s summit area is exposed and often windy, with cold temperatures even in summer.
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