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South Face

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI Edit route
The South Face is one of the classic and best-known alpine objectives on Mount Waddington. It is a serious big-mountain route with sustained steep climbing on snow, ice, and mixed terrain. Objective hazards include avalanches, rockfall, and rapidly changing weather typical of the Waddington Range. The route is generally approached as a major expedition-style climb rather than a short day ascent. Conditions on the face can vary widely, and route-finding is an important part of the climb. It is a documented summit route on the peak and is among the standard names associated with Mount Waddington.

Route Outline

Access to the South Face via the Waddington Range approach
Base camp or bivouac below the face
Climb the South Face to the upper mountain
Gain the summit ridge/plateau and continue to the summit
Descend by the chosen descent line or reverse the ascent route

More routes on Mount Waddington

North Face

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
The North Face is a major alpine route on Mount Waddington and is widely recognized in climbing literature. It is a serious, committing line with steep terrain and significant exposure. The face is subject to avalanche danger, icefall, and rockfall, especially in unstable weather. Like other Waddington routes, it is typically climbed in expedition style with a camp or bivouac near the mountain. The route demands solid alpine judgment and efficient movement on complex terrain. It is one of the established named summit routes for the peak.
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Southwest Ridge

4B | D+ | IV/V
The Southwest Ridge is a classic named route on Mount Waddington. It is generally considered less direct than the faces but still a serious alpine climb. The route follows exposed ridge terrain with snow, ice, and rock sections. Cornices, loose rock, and weather exposure are common concerns. Route-finding can be complex in poor visibility. It is a documented summit route and a standard objective on the mountain.
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South Ridge

4B | D+ | IV/V
The South Ridge is another established named route on Mount Waddington. It offers a long alpine ridge climb with sustained exposure. The route typically involves snow, ice, and rock, depending on conditions. Objective hazards include cornices, loose sections, and severe weather. It is a committing route that requires good acclimatization and mountain judgment. The South Ridge is documented as one of the recognized summit lines on the peak.
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