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South Face

6B | ED2 | VII Edit route
The South Face is a documented major alpine objective on Mount Saint Elias. It is a very serious route with sustained steep terrain and significant exposure to avalanches, icefall, and storm conditions. The face is remote and committing, and the scale of the mountain makes retreat difficult once committed. Climbing conditions can vary widely, but the route is consistently considered one of the hardest lines on the peak. It is an expedition-grade ascent requiring strong glacier, ice, and mixed-climbing skills. The route is known from well-documented ascents and expedition literature on the mountain.

Route Outline

Approach via glacier access to the base of the south side of the mountain
Set up advanced camp below the face
Climb the South Face through steep snow, ice, and mixed sections
Gain the upper mountain and finish on the summit ridge
Descend by the ascent route or another established descent line if conditions permit

More routes on Mount Saint Elias

East Ridge

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
The East Ridge is the classic and best-known climbing line on Mount Saint Elias. It is a major alpine route combining glacier travel, steep snow, ice, and exposed mixed climbing on a very large mountain. Objective hazards include crevasses, serac exposure, avalanche danger, and severe weather typical of the Saint Elias Range. The route is long and committing, with complex logistics and a serious high-altitude environment. It is generally regarded as a difficult, expedition-style alpine climb rather than a technical rock route. Documentation of the line appears in standard mountaineering references and expedition accounts for the peak.
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