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Northwest route via the Johannis Hut and the Schlatenkees

2A | PD | II Edit route
This is a documented glacier ascent from the northwest side of Großvenediger. It is generally considered a non-technical alpine route, but it still demands glacier travel skills and good route judgment. The main objective hazards are crevasses, snow conditions, and weather exposure on the upper mountain. The route is longer and more committing than a simple hiking summit, and it is normally done with rope and full alpine equipment. In stable conditions it offers a classic high-alpine experience. Descent is usually via the same line.

Route Outline

Valley approach from the Matrei / Innergschlöss side -> Johannis Hut
Johannis Hut -> Schlatenkees glacier
Ascend glacier and snow slopes toward the summit ridge
Summit of Großvenediger
Descend by the ascent route

More routes on Großvenediger

Normal route via the Kürsinger Hut and the Venediger Ridge

2A | PD | II
Approach Time
2-3 h
Ascent Time
6-8 h
Summit Push
3-4 h
Descent Time
4-6 h
This is the classic and most frequently used ascent of Großvenediger. It is a long glacier route with generally moderate technical difficulty, but it requires solid alpine experience and safe movement on snow and ice. The route crosses crevassed glacier terrain, so rope travel and crevasse-rescue competence are important. The upper mountain is usually climbed on a broad snow ridge that can become exposed to wind and poor visibility. Conditions vary strongly with season, and late-summer crevasse openings can make the route more serious. The descent is normally by the ascent route.
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Normal route via the Defregger House and the Venediger Ridge

2A | PD | II
Approach Time
2-3 h
Ascent Time
6-8 h
Summit Push
3-4 h
Descent Time
4-6 h
This is another established normal ascent from the north side of the mountain. It is a classic glacier climb with a long approach and a substantial summit day. The route is less about steep climbing than about efficient travel over glacier and snow terrain. Crevasses and route-finding can be significant issues, especially in poor weather or late in the season. The final ridge section is usually straightforward in good conditions but can feel exposed. Descent is typically made on the ascent line.
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