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North ridge from the Lünersee area

3A | AD | III Edit route
Approach Time
2-3 h
Ascent Time
4-6 h
Descent Time
3-5 h
The north ridge is a documented alpine route on Schesaplana and is more serious than the normal south-ridge ascent. It is a ridge climb with exposed sections and more sustained scrambling. Conditions on the north side can remain snowier and colder than the south side, especially early in the season. Route-finding is more important here than on the normal route. It is suitable for experienced mountaineers comfortable on exposed alpine terrain. The route is typically treated as a climbing objective rather than a simple hiking ascent.

Route Outline

Lünersee / Douglasshütte area
Approach the north side of Schesaplana
Gain the north ridge and follow it upward
Climb mixed rock and exposed ridge terrain to the summit
Descend by the same route or via the normal route if arranged

More routes on Schesaplana

Normal route from Schesaplanahütte via the Südgrat (south ridge)

2A | PD | II
Approach Time
1-2 h
Ascent Time
3-4 h
Descent Time
2-3 h
This is the standard and best-known mountaineering route on Schesaplana. It starts from the Schesaplanahütte and follows the south ridge to the summit. The route is a classic alpine hike/scramble with short rocky sections rather than a sustained climb. In dry conditions it is generally straightforward for sure-footed climbers, but the upper ridge requires attention. Snow, ice, or wet rock can significantly increase the difficulty and objective hazard. The route is commonly described in alpine guide material as the normal ascent from the Swiss side.
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