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North Face (Voie normale par le versant nord)

3A | AD | III Edit route
This is the classic mountaineering line on Mont Maudit and is commonly described as the normal route from the Col du Midi side. It is a serious high-altitude snow and ice climb rather than a hiking route. The route typically involves glacier travel, crevasse danger, and objective hazards from seracs and avalanche-prone slopes on the north face. Conditions can vary greatly, with the difficulty depending on snow cover and the state of the upper face. The final section to the summit is exposed and requires competent ropework and crampon technique. It is often climbed as part of the Mont Blanc traverse rather than as a standalone objective.

Route Outline

Mont Blanc Tunnel / Aiguille du Midi area -> Col du Midi
Cross the Glacier du Géant and reach the foot of the north face
Climb the north face to the Col Maudit / upper slopes
Continue over the summit ridge to Mont Maudit
Descend by the same route or continue toward Mont Blanc if part of a traverse

More routes on Mont Maudit

South Ridge

4A | D | IV
The South Ridge is a documented alpine route on Mont Maudit and is generally considered more technical and exposed than the normal north-side ascent. It follows a narrow ridge line with mixed snow, ice, and rock sections depending on conditions. Cornices and exposure are significant concerns, especially in poor visibility or soft snow. The route demands solid alpine movement and careful protection management. It is less commonly used than the north-face line and is often part of longer traverses in the Mont Blanc massif.
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