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North Face

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI Edit route
The north face is one of the major alpine faces of the Bernese Alps and a serious technical route on Aletschhorn. It is a steep snow-and-ice climb with sustained exposure and objective danger from avalanches, icefall, and changing conditions. The line is much more demanding than the normal southwest-ridge ascent. It requires solid mixed and steep snow/ice competence and careful timing. Because conditions vary greatly, the exact line and difficulty can change from season to season. It is a classic mountaineering objective rather than a hiking route.

Route Outline

Approach to the base of the north face from the Aletsch Glacier side
Ascend the steep north face on snow and ice
Gain the upper mountain near the summit ridge
Finish on the summit of Aletschhorn
Descend by the chosen descent route

More routes on Aletschhorn

Southwest Ridge (Normal Route from Hollandia Hut)

3A | AD | III
Approach Time
2-4 h
Ascent Time
6-8 h
Summit Push
4-6 h
Descent Time
4-6 h
This is the classic and best-known route to Aletschhorn. It is a long high-alpine ascent on snow, ice, and mixed terrain, usually starting from the Hollandia Hut. The route is generally less technical than the steep north-face lines, but it remains serious because of its length, altitude, and glacier travel. The upper mountain can involve exposed ridge climbing and route-finding in poor visibility. Crevasses and snow conditions on the approach are important objective hazards. It is typically climbed as a two-day outing with an overnight at the hut.
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West Ridge

4A | D | IV
The west ridge is a documented alpine route on Aletschhorn and is more technical than the normal southwest ridge. It combines exposed ridge climbing with mixed alpine conditions. The route is serious because of its remoteness, altitude, and the need for secure movement on broken terrain. Snow and ice can significantly increase the difficulty. It is a true mountaineering line requiring experience with exposed ridges. Conditions on the ridge can make the route feel substantially harder than the nominal grade.
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