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North Face (1938 Route / Harrer Route)

6B | ED2 | VII Edit route
The 1938 Route is the historic line associated with the first successful ascent of the Eiger North Face and is well documented in mountaineering literature. It is a severe mixed climb with sustained technical difficulty and serious objective hazards. The route is closely related to the classic north face line and is often discussed in the context of the 1938 ascent. Conditions on the face strongly influence difficulty, especially on the rock and ice sections. It requires excellent fitness, strong mixed-climbing ability, and sound judgment. Like other north face routes, it is exposed to rockfall, icefall, and rapid weather deterioration.

Route Outline

Approach the Eiger North Face from the valley or railway access
Climb the lower face via the 1938 line
Continue through the central mixed terrain and traverse sections
Reach the upper face and summit exit
Summit of the Eiger

More routes on Eiger

Mittellegi Ridge

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
The Mittellegi Ridge is one of the classic alpine routes on the Eiger and is widely documented in guidebooks. It is a long, exposed mixed ridge with sustained climbing on rock and snow. The route is serious because of its exposure, altitude, and the need for stable conditions. It is generally considered a major alpine objective rather than a simple rock climb. The ridge is often climbed with a hut approach and requires solid mountaineering experience. Conditions can change quickly, and retreat may be difficult once committed.
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West Flank / West Flank Route

4B | D+ | IV/V
The West Flank route is a documented alpine ascent line on the Eiger, generally less technical than the famous north face routes but still a serious high-mountain climb. It combines snow, ice, and mixed terrain, with objective hazards from rockfall and changing snow conditions. The route is typically used as an ascent or descent line in stable conditions. It demands good route-finding in complex terrain. Although not as difficult as the north face, it remains a substantial alpine undertaking at nearly 4000 metres. The route is best suited to experienced climbers comfortable with exposed glacier and mixed ground.
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North Face (Heckmair Route)

6B | ED2 | VII
The Heckmair Route is the classic line on the Eiger North Face and one of the most famous alpine climbs in the world. It is a long, serious mixed route with sustained difficulty, objective danger, and a strong historical reputation. The climb involves steep ice, rock, and mixed sections, with significant exposure to rockfall and weather changes. It is usually climbed in a single push by highly experienced alpinists, though bivouacs are possible. Route-finding is complex, especially in poor conditions or when the face is icy or dry. This is a major expedition-style alpine route rather than a standard mountaineering ascent.
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North Face (Japanese Direct Route)

6B | ED2 | VII
The Japanese Direct Route is a documented direct line on the Eiger North Face and is known for its sustained seriousness. It is a steep mixed route with demanding climbing and significant objective danger. The line is more direct than the classic Heckmair Route and is generally regarded as a major alpine challenge. Conditions on the face can make the route much harder, especially if the ice is thin or the rock is wet. It is suitable only for very experienced climbers with strong mixed and route-finding skills. The route is part of the established history of Eiger north face ascents.
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