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North Face

4A | D | IV Edit route
The North Face is one of the major alpine routes on Mönch and is significantly more serious than the normal route. It is a steep snow-and-ice climb with objective hazards from avalanche, ice, and changing conditions. The route demands strong crampon technique and secure movement on sustained steep ground. It is a classic face climb in the Bernese Alps and is well known in mountaineering literature. Conditions can make the route much harder than its nominal grade suggests.

Route Outline

Approach the north side of Mönch
Climb the north face on steep snow and ice
Pass the upper face to the summit ridge
Reach the summit of Mönch
Descend by a suitable alpine route

More routes on Mönch

Approach Time
1-1.5 h
Ascent Time
4-6 h
Descent Time
3-4 h
This is the standard and best-known way to climb Mönch. The route is usually started from Jungfraujoch, with an approach to the Mönchsjoch Hut before the actual climb begins. It crosses glacier terrain and then gains the summit by snow slopes and a rocky ridge section. Conditions can vary significantly, and crevasses and hard snow are common objective hazards. The route is generally considered a classic alpine ascent rather than a technical rock climb. It is normally done with glacier equipment and good route-finding ability.
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South Ridge

3A | AD | III
The South Ridge is a documented alpine route on Mönch and is more serious than the normal route. It involves mixed climbing on snow, ice, and rock, depending on conditions. The ridge is exposed and requires solid movement on steep alpine terrain. Route-finding and timing are important because the face and ridge can be affected by changing snow and ice conditions. It is a classic mountaineering line rather than a hiking ascent.
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