Normal route via the Morteratsch Glacier and East Ridge

This is the standard documented alpine route to Piz Morteratsch and is typically described as a glacier-and-ridge ascent. It begins with a long approach over the Morteratsch Glacier, where crevasse hazards and route-finding are the main objective dangers. The upper mountain is climbed by the East Ridge, which is steeper, more exposed, and more technical than the glacier approach suggests. Conditions can vary significantly with snow cover, ice, and rock quality. The route is a serious alpine climb rather than a hiking objective. It is usually undertaken with full glacier equipment and competence in mixed terrain.