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Normal Route via the Ailefroide Glacier and the Coolidge Couloir

3A | AD | III Edit route
This is the classic and best-known mountaineering line on Mont Pelvoux. It is a serious high-mountain snow and ice route, usually climbed with glacier travel equipment and an early start. The Coolidge Couloir is the key difficulty and can be steep, icy, and exposed to rockfall depending on conditions. Above the couloir, the route continues on mixed snow and rock terrain to the summit ridge. Objective hazards include crevasses on the glacier approach and rapidly changing conditions in the couloir. It is generally considered a long alpine climb rather than a simple snow ascent.

Route Outline

Ailefroide / Pré de Madame Carle area -> Glacier Blanc / Glacier de l'Ailefroide approach
Refuge du Pelvoux or bivouac -> Glacier de l'Ailefroide -> base of the Coolidge Couloir
Climb the Coolidge Couloir and upper snow/ice slopes -> summit ridge
Summit of Mont Pelvoux -> descend by the ascent route

More routes on Mont Pelvoux

South Face

4B | D+ | IV/V
The South Face is a major alpine face route on Mont Pelvoux and is documented in classic guidebooks. It is a much more committing and technical objective than the normal route. The line involves sustained mixed climbing on steep rock and snow, with route-finding that depends on conditions. Rockfall and loose sections can be significant hazards, especially in warm weather. Because of its scale and seriousness, it is best suited to experienced alpinists. The route is typically climbed in stable conditions and with careful timing.
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Southwest Ridge

4A | D | IV
The Southwest Ridge is a named alpine ridge route on Mont Pelvoux. It is a long, exposed climb combining rock, snow, and mixed ground. The route is more technical and committing than the standard glacier-couloir ascent. Route-finding can be complex, especially where the ridge breaks into towers and ledges. Protection may be sparse in places, and the route demands solid alpine experience. It is a classic objective for climbers seeking a more aesthetic and sustained line on the mountain.
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