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Normal Route (South-West Face / Pierre Allain Route)

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI Edit route
This is the classic normal route on the Aiguille du Dru, commonly associated with Pierre Allain. It is a serious alpine rock-and-mixed climb on steep granite, with sustained difficulty and objective hazards from rockfall and changing conditions. The route is far more demanding than a standard Mont Blanc massif normal route and is only suitable for very experienced alpinists. Because the Dru’s south-west face is steep and exposed, route-finding and protection management are important throughout. Conditions on the face can vary greatly, especially with snow or verglas on the upper sections. It is a well-documented summit route, but exact timings and total ascent figures are not consistently standardized in sources.

Route Outline

Argentière / Montenvers area -> approach to the south-west face
Base of the Dru -> steep mixed rock and ice climbing
Upper face / summit ridge -> summit of Aiguille du Dru
Descend by the same route or via an established descent line, depending on conditions

More routes on Aiguille du Dru

Bonatti Route

6B | ED2 | VII
The Bonatti Route is one of the most famous lines on the Aiguille du Dru and is a major alpine test-piece. It is a very serious mixed and rock climb on steep granite, with sustained technical difficulties and significant exposure. The route is known for its commitment and for objective dangers typical of the Dru, especially rockfall and unstable conditions. It is generally regarded as harder and more serious than the classic normal route. The line is well documented in major alpine literature and guidebooks. Exact ascent and descent times are not reliably standardized and are therefore omitted.
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American Direct

6B | ED2 | VII
The American Direct is a classic direct line on the Aiguille du Dru and is among the peak’s best-known hard routes. It is a steep, sustained alpine rock route with serious exposure and a high level of technical difficulty. The route is documented in standard climbing references for the Dru and is considered a major objective in the Mont Blanc massif. Rock quality and objective hazards can be significant, and conditions strongly influence the seriousness of the climb. It is not a hiking route and requires advanced alpine and rock-climbing competence. Reliable documented figures for total ascent, length, and timings are not consistently available, so they are omitted.
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Bonatti Pillar

6B | ED2 | VII
The Bonatti Pillar is a famous and highly regarded route on the Aiguille du Dru. It is a demanding alpine rock climb on steep granite, with sustained technical climbing and substantial exposure. The route is well documented and is one of the peak’s signature lines. As with many Dru routes, rockfall and route conditions are important hazards. It is a serious objective for expert climbers rather than a standard mountaineering ascent. Documented numerical data such as ascent time or elevation gain is not consistently standardized in the sources available, so those fields are left null.
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