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Normal Route (Refugio Tejos / Refugio Atacama side)

2A | PD | II Edit route
This is the standard and best-documented way to climb Ojos del Salado. It is a non-technical high-altitude ascent on volcanic scree, sand, and broken rock, but the extreme elevation makes it serious. The route is usually climbed from a high camp or refuge on the Chilean side, with long acclimatization and careful pacing essential. Objective hazards include cold, wind, dehydration, and altitude sickness rather than technical climbing difficulty. In normal conditions no fixed protection is required, though snow or ice can appear seasonally on upper slopes. It is generally considered the mountain’s easiest established summit route.

Route Outline

Base area / high camp on the Chilean side -> approach across volcanic desert and scree slopes
Refugio Tejos / high camp area -> upper volcanic slopes
Broad summit cone -> summit crater rim / highest point
Descend the same route to camp and base

More routes on Cerro Ojos del Salado

Southwest Ridge

3A | AD | III
The Southwest Ridge is a recognized alpine route on Ojos del Salado and is more committing than the normal route. It involves steeper mixed terrain on volcanic rock and loose ground, with route-finding more important than on the standard ascent. Conditions can vary widely, and snow or verglas may increase the difficulty. The route is exposed to strong winds and severe cold at high altitude. It is suitable only for experienced climbers comfortable on loose alpine terrain. Because documentation is limited compared with the normal route, many practical details are not consistently published.
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