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Normal Route (North Face)

2A | PD | II Edit route
Approach Time
2-4 h
Ascent Time
1-2 days
Summit Push
6-8 h
Descent Time
3-5 h
This is the standard and by far the most commonly climbed route on Cotopaxi. It is a glacier route on the north side, usually climbed from the José Rivas refuge or a high camp. The route is generally straightforward in technical terms but requires competent glacier travel and crevasse management. Objective hazards include crevasses, serac and icefall exposure, and rapidly changing weather. Conditions can vary significantly with snow cover and volcanic activity. Most ascents are done at night or very early morning to benefit from firmer snow and safer conditions.

Route Outline

Refugio José Rivas (or high camp) -> glacier approach
Climb the north face glacier and snow slopes
Pass crevasse zones and the upper summit slopes
Reach the crater rim and summit of Cotopaxi
Descend the same route to the refuge

More routes on Cotopaxi

Southwest Ridge

3A | AD | III
The southwest ridge is a documented alpine route on Cotopaxi and is more serious than the normal route. It involves mixed snow, ice, and ridge climbing rather than a straightforward glacier ascent. The line is less commonly climbed and is more exposed to wind, hard snow, and route-finding issues. Conditions can make the route significantly more difficult than its nominal grade suggests. It is best suited to experienced climbers comfortable on steep alpine terrain. Because documentation is less standardized than for the normal route, time and distance figures are often not consistently published.
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