Normal route from the Simplon Pass / Monte Leone Hut
This is the standard and best-known mountaineering route to Monte Leone. It is a glacier-and-snow ascent with straightforward alpine terrain in normal conditions. The route is typically climbed from the Monte Leone Hut, which serves as the usual high base. Objective hazards include crevasses, snow conditions, and late-season rock exposure near the upper mountain. The difficulty is generally moderate alpine mountaineering rather than technical climbing. Route-finding can become important in poor visibility or when the glacier is broken.
Route Outline
Simplon Pass area or valley approach -> Monte Leone Hut (Capanna Monte Leone)
Hut -> glacier approach below the north side of Monte Leone
Ascend snow and glacier slopes to the summit ridge
Follow the ridge to the summit of Monte Leone
Descend by the ascent route