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Normal route from the Monte Rosa Hut via the Lys Glacier and the Grenzsattel

2A | PD | II Edit route
Approach Time
1-2 h
Ascent Time
4-6 h
Summit Push
2-3 h
Descent Time
3-5 h
This is the standard and best-documented way to climb Zumsteinspitze. It is a classic high-alpine glacier route with moderate technical difficulty, usually graded around PD. The route is normally undertaken with glacier travel equipment and rope because of crevasses and the possibility of snow bridges. The final ridge to the summit is generally straightforward but can be exposed and icy depending on conditions. The route is commonly combined with ascents of nearby Monte Rosa summits. Objective hazards include crevasses, serac exposure on the glacier approach, and rapidly changing weather at high altitude.

Route Outline

Monte Rosa Hut (or high approach point)
Lys Glacier
Grenzsattel / Colle del Lys
Southwest ridge to Zumsteinspitze
Summit
Return by the ascent route