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← Punta Nordend

Normal route from the Margherita Hut via the Grenz Glacier and the Nordend summit ridge

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This is the standard and best-known route to Punta Nordend. It is a high-alpine snow and glacier ascent with no technical rock climbing of note in normal conditions. The main objective hazards are crevasses, serac exposure on the glacier approach, and poor visibility on the broad upper slopes. The route is typically climbed from the Margherita Hut, making it a relatively short summit day compared with lower-valley ascents. Conditions can vary significantly with snow cover and late-season crevasse opening. A rope, glacier travel skills, and alpine experience are normally required.

Route Outline

Margherita Hut (Capanna Regina Margherita)
Cross the Grenz Glacier toward the Nordend side
Climb the glacier slopes to the upper snowfield
Gain the summit ridge and follow it to Punta Nordend
Return by the ascent route to the hut