Normal route from the Margherita Hut (Punta Gnifetti normal route)

This is the standard and by far the most commonly climbed route to Punta Gnifetti. It is a high-altitude snow-and-glacier ascent with generally moderate technical difficulty but significant objective glacier hazards. The route is usually climbed from the Capanna Regina Margherita, the highest hut in the Alps, which makes the summit push relatively short. Crevasses, hard snow, and poor visibility can make route-finding serious despite the modest grade. In normal conditions it is a classic alpine mountaineering objective rather than a rock climb. The difficulty is strongly dependent on snow conditions and acclimatization.