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Normal Route from Mittelallalin via Fee Glacier

2A | PD | II Edit route
Approach Time
0.5-1 h
Ascent Time
3-4 h
Descent Time
2-3 h
This is the standard and best-known route on the Allalinhorn, commonly climbed from the Mittelallalin lift station above Saas-Fee. It is a classic glacier ascent with generally moderate technical difficulty, but it requires competent glacier travel and crevasse awareness. The route is usually straightforward in good conditions, though the upper slopes can be steep enough to demand secure movement on snow and ice. Conditions vary significantly with season and weather, and the glacier approach can be affected by crevasses and late-summer bare ice. Because of the lift access, the route is often completed as a fast day ascent. It is one of the most popular 4000-m peaks in the Alps.

Route Outline

Mittelallalin (Saas Fee lift station)
Traverse the Fee Glacier to the base of the summit slopes
Climb the broad snow/ice slopes of the Allalinhorn
Reach the summit ridge and summit
Descend by the same route to Mittelallalin

More routes on Allalinhorn

Hohlaubgrat

3A | AD | III
The Hohlaubgrat is a well-known alpine ridge route on the Allalinhorn and is more demanding than the normal glacier route. It combines snow, ice, and some rocky sections, so it is a more serious mountaineering objective. The route is valued for its more alpine character and typically requires better route-finding and more secure movement than the standard ascent. Objective hazards include crevasses on the approach and changing snow conditions on the ridge. It is generally considered a classic moderate alpine climb rather than a pure snow walk. In poor conditions it can become significantly more difficult.
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West Ridge

3A | AD | III
The West Ridge is another established alpine route on the Allalinhorn. It is a ridge climb with mixed terrain and is more technical and committing than the normal route. The line is typically climbed in stable conditions when the ridge is well formed. Snow, ice, and short rocky sections can all be encountered, so the route demands solid alpine experience. It is less of a straightforward glacier ascent and more of a classic ridge objective. As with many alpine ridges, conditions strongly influence the difficulty.
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