Normal route from Fridolinshütte via the Bifertenfirn
This is the classic and best-known ascent route to Glarner Tödi. It is a serious high-alpine glacier climb, typically involving snow and ice travel on the Bifertenfirn. The route is usually done from the Fridolinshütte, which serves as the standard base for the ascent. Objective hazards include crevasses, serac and snow-slope instability, and route-finding in poor visibility. The upper mountain can require crampons and rope work throughout. Conditions vary strongly with season and glacier state, so the route is best attempted in stable weather and with alpine experience.
Route Outline
Fridolinshütte
Bifertenfirn glacier
Upper glacier slopes below the Tödi massif
Summit ridge/upper snow slopes
Glarner Tödi summit
Return by the same route