Mountaineering Routes · Aiguille du Chardonnet

This is the classic and most commonly cited route to the summit of Aiguille du Chardonnet. It is a high alpine snow-and-ice route with a mixed ridge finish, typically approached from the Refuge d'Argentière. The route usually involves glacier travel, crevasse hazards, and a steep section near the Col du Chardonnet. The Forbes Arête is the key technical feature and can require careful route-finding and secure movement on exposed terrain. Conditions vary significantly with season and snow cover, and objective hazards include serac fall and rockfall in warm periods. It is generally considered a serious but standard ascent for experienced alpinists.

The South Face is a much more difficult and committing line than the normal route. It is a steep alpine face combining rock and mixed climbing, with a more serious level of technical difficulty and exposure. The route is strongly dependent on conditions, especially snow and ice quality on the upper face. Rockfall and loose sections can be significant hazards, particularly in warm or unstable weather. Because of its seriousness, it is suited to strong, well-equipped parties with solid alpine experience. It is a documented summit route on the peak, but far less standard than the Forbes Arête line.